mobility
I remember the first time I sat in an electric car. It was at a sustainability event in Grafenegg. Tesla had used a lotus chassis for the first roadster that made it to Austria. My cameraman and I got the chance to ride in it and get all our questions answered: one of the perks of working in media. I got in, dug into...
readers april 2018
Many thanks for your thoughts, ideas and insights! If you have something to say about Vienna or a story you read here, tell us all about it. Send an email to office@metropole.at. To the Editor, Congratulations on your commentary on immigration that I read at first when I received your paper. I read it with growing excitement because it is right on the point. I’ve passed...
anschluss
What would we have done? Trying to grasp what we can never fully understand. This year’s commemoration of the Anschluss of Austria by Nazi Germany, March 11 & 12, 1938, has been as engrossing as it has been hard to absorb. 80 years: The series of evenings on ORF, the Zeituhr 1938 retold in real time, the photographs and the...
allforjan
As the largest protests since 1989 rock Slovakia following the murder of investigative journalist Ján Kuciak, fellow contributors wonder about the future of the country. Slovaks don’t have a tradition of protest. When demonstrations do happen, it’s something serious. In November ’89, we were too young to take part in the Velvet (or Gentle) Revolution, in 1998 we were still teenagers,...
sharing economy
The sharing economy makes us more flexible but is no substitute for a true social community. When my Airbnb host introduced me to his children I was slightly bemused. The elder one of the two boys was Bruce and the baby – you guessed it – Lee. A young family who bolstered their mortgage payments with income from Airbnb. In...
kreisel motors
One of three brothers, Markus Kreisel is at the forefront of innovation in e-mobility and energy solutions – in the Mühlviertel, of all places. Dozens of new chairs were being rolled into the glassed-in office across from the meeting room where we sat at the breathtaking Headquarters of Kreisel Electric in Rainbach in the Mühlviertel. The company is scaling fast,...
austrian news march 2018
A quick-and-dirty synopsis of recent headlines in Vienna. Real Operetta or Merely a State Crisis? In the early hours of February 28, public prosecutors accompanied by armed police stormed into the Office for Protection of the Constitution and Anti-Terror (BVT). They spent hours clearing data from the department responsible for extremism, which insiders suspected had dossiers implicating some close to the FPÖ (the junior partner in the ruling coalition). The Vienna weekly...
jobs united nations
It often seems impossible for an outsider to get a job at the UN. But is it really? “No,” said Linda Starodub, who recently retired from 30 plus years in the UN system, half of it in human resources, “but… it’s complicated.” There are two basic strata of jobs: There is GS (General Service) and P (Professional). Each UN organization has...
drones in austria
In Austria, privacy is king. The advent of drones is thus seen with a good measure of skepticism and trepidation. But you can still pilot them legally. Lying in the sun around one of Vienna’s many open-air swimming pools is a summer pastime nearly as essential to the Viennese DNA as lingering over a coffee or white wine spritzer at...
With the Straßenbahn in their DNA, the Vienneseare abandoning their cars for public transport and looking forward to robot chauffeurs. Bumper to bumper, the motorcade makes itstortured way forwardalong Vienna’s Gürtel, dividing the inner nine districts from the rest of the city. Packed into three or sometimes four lanesin one direction, motorists curse and shout, as all the frustrations of the day come pouring out. As the...
Whether we’re getting around by car, bike, metro or just heading across the street, it takes a whole city to keep us mobile. “Going to a regular school, it didn’t take long for me and the other kids to get used to each other, that it was normal. That was the key to the path of the rest of my life.” In the English-speaking world, it’s called...
Whether we’re getting around by car, bike, metro or just heading across the street, it takes a whole city to keep us mobile. “Everybody’s heard of Uber, it’s become a worldwide brand. It’s not something that can be squashed easily. But they simply take too big a piece of the pie.” When the international ridesharing company Uber launched a branch in Vienna three years ago, Burhan Aygün, 26, was...
roland romano
Whether we’re getting around by car, bike, metro or just heading across the street, it takes a whole city to keep us mobile. "The main reason people should cycle is not just to ride a bike, it’s about choosing the most sustainable form of mobility in order to improve our quality of life.” Like many people, Roland Romano, 26, remembers very clearly the day he learned to ride...
Whether we’re getting around by car, bike, metro or just heading across the street, it takes a whole city to keep us mobile. “We accommodate 2.6 million passengers a day. That’s a number that speaks for itself.” When Johanna Wiesholzer’s American cousin came to visit her recently in Vienna, he was appalled at the notion of taking public transport, exclaiming, “We...
drivers license
Feeling the urge to get out of town and hit the open road? It may be time to take the plunge and get legal. It had been snowing all night. Ski conditions will be perfect, I said cheerily, as we loaded the car for Waldbach. Sharing the driving, it’s an easy two hours. … My friends rolled their eyes. I...
In our age of e-commerce, it is the mobility of things that has become ever more important. Logistic companies aim to tackle the problem with new technologies. Since Darius the Great’s failed attempt to conquer Greece in 492 B.C, the problem of “last mile” – the complexity and inefficiency of delivering freight on the final leg of its journey –...
The American International School – Vienna has a long history of shaping tomorrow’s leaders, thinkers and artists. Aerin Lauder Zinterhofer and Jane Lauder are the granddaughters of Estée and Joseph Lauder, founders of the cosmetics giant Estée Lauder. In the 1980s, the sisters attended AIS – with Aerin graduating in 1988 – as their family moved to Vienna as a results of their father’s...
New modes of transport are trying to change the way we travel. But are they really a match for Austria’s time-tested infrastructure? Austria’s trains and buses are almost always on time, and Vienna’s public transport system is the envy of cities the world over. Vienna’s cabbies drive spotless Mercedes-Benz taxis.Citybikes are convenient and free for the first hour. When it comes to transportation, commuters want predictability and convenience....
The murder of journalist Ján Kuciak has shaken Slovakia out of its complacency. Here, big things often happen in years ending in “8”. Standing on a packed square in Bratislava as people around you jangle their keys and chant the slogans they remember – or that their parents have told them about – it is hard not to make comparisons. These are the symbols the Velvet...
Two journalists, both first-hand witnesses of Slovakia’s transition from a place through the looking glass to a country at the heart of the European project, ponder the road it has taken and the challenges ahead. By Dardis McNamee & Pavol Múdry
empire to republic slovakia
Bratislava, once at the center of the Empire, is now one of Europe’s youngest capitals. by James Thomson & Carmen Viragova, with Dardis McNamee You could say that Slovakia is a new country – established as an autonomous state only after the Velvet Revolution in 1992. But that would be very misleading for this ancient land, which was at the center...
An American with Slovak roots shares his memories of the day when Slovakia was born. The air was frigid on Bratislava’s Námestie SNP as the calendar flipped from 1992 to 1993, and the pyrotechnics were underwhelming. But then, as the clock struck 12:01 am, hundreds of Slovaks spontaneously joined in singing their new republic’s national anthem, “Lightning over the Tatras.” Then,...
From lightning over the Tatras to the growing firs on the slopes of Kriváň Mountain, the Slovak anthem praises the rugged beauty of this country in the heart of Europe that many travelers have yet to explore.
Vienna's Hauptbahnhof has spawned a whole new neighborhood. Even in a metropolis as staunchly traditional as Vienna, change is the only constant. It is a place where historical, architectural masterpieces coexist next to cutting edge, modern skyscrapers and lush, green city parks – all connected by the Vienna transport network. But creating a new, functioning quarter in a city of steady growth and renewal still poses some challenges. With the construction of the...
Nestroyviertel
On a little square, tucked away at the bottom of Praterstraße, stands a gentleman cast in iron, his Napoleon collar high on his neck, top hat in hand, making his entry. It’s Johann Nepomuk Nestroy, all around man of the theater, after whom this Grätzl is named. Hardly a household name in the English-speaking world, in Austria, Nestroy is a giant,...
The Volkstheater descends into rockstar territory in Much Ado About Nothing. While the works of William Shakespeare are often considered timeless, that hasn’t kept people from trying to keep them relevant. The latest to do so is the Volkstheater, who have staged a heavily modernized version of Viel Lärm um Nichts (Much Ado About Nothing) translated into German by Angela Schanelec with surtitles in English and Bosnian-Croatian-Serbian. (If you’re reliant on...
The Vienna Theatre Project produces Rajiv Joseph’s off-Broadway hit. Once again proving their knack for bringing contemporary English-language theater to the city, Joanna Godwin-Seidl’s Vienna Theatre Project adds another continental European premier to its list: Guards at the Taj, by the Tony and Pulitzer-nominated Indian-American playwright Rajiv Joseph. Based on some of the numerous legends surrounding the mausoleum, Joseph approaches the edifice in a manner reminiscent of Tom Stoppard’s Rosencrantz and Guildenstern are Dead or Beckett’s Waiting for Godot – the two titular...
A love letter to the Straßenbahn, Vienna’s Traffic Museum offers insight into commuter habits. Vienna has an ongoing love affair with its Straßenbahn (tramway), this red-and-white (or in its latest iteration, red-and-silver streetcar) that glides through the streets at reassuring intervals. Affectionately nicknamed Bim after the sound of its warning bells, it’s ubiquitous, and unlike the cable cars of San...
A big retrospective presents outstanding works from a painter who was ahead of his time. One of the great pioneers of Modernism, Anton Romako shocked his contemporaries, predating the Wiener Moderne by more than a decade. Born as the illegitimate son of a factory owner and his housemaid, Romako studied historical painting at the Academy of Fine Arts Vienna before...
Old Masters meet the new, bridging the gaps in the KHM’s collection. Despite representing some 5,000 years of human artistic endeavour, the 200 years before our present day are perennially underrepresented in the collection of the venerable Kunsthistorisches Museum. In the first group exhibition conceived as part of their Modern and Contemporary program, modern and contemporary artworks are juxtaposed with...
Thoughts about music in a raucous world and International Noise Awareness Day. The concert halls in Vienna are phenomenal spaces. You might think I’m talking about the music. But what flabbergasts me is how quiet they are. There is no air-conditioning rumble, no sudden siren from the street. I love listening to their silence, to the wondrous moment of noiseless...
The legend and Nobel laureate continues his never ending tour with his first triple album. One of the most important and influential performers of the 20th century, Bob Dylan emerged from the 1960s American counterculture as one of its most dominant voices. His influence over the modern music scene and pop culture has been immense, leaving an indelible mark on...
Benjamin Britten’s take on Shakespeare’s seminal comedy comes to life in a brand new production. English may not be nearly as popular as Italian, German or French in the world of opera, but there are more productions than most assume. Fortunately, the Theater an der Wien has sought to emphasize that, offering a brand new production of Benjamin Britten’s A...
Mixing the profound with the absurd, Lucky pays tribute to the late Harry Dean Stanton and leaves audiences pondering. There’s a certain poetry in daily routines, the quiet reassurance of repetition over years. But it can be treacherous, as nothing ever stays the same – there is one inescapable truth that always catches up. That’s where Lucky comes in, the directorial debut...
The Let’s CEE Film Festival returns with the very best from Central and Eastern Europe, Turkey and the Caucasus. Just six years old and already an institution, the Let’s CEE lm festival is dedicated to motion pictures from central and eastern Europe and as far afield as the Caucasus. And while the organizers have been hit hard by budget cuts,...
book review angel of oblivion
Maja Haderlap’s debut novel Angel of Oblivion confronts the past in Austria’s borderlands. Austrian writer Maja Haderlap is a farmer’s daughter from Bad Eisenkappel, in Carinthia, Austria’s southernmost province. This bi-lingual borderland has been the scene of cultural mini-wars, but over time, a shared sense of enrichment has prevailed on both sides. Straddling these worlds, Haderlap has published extensively in...
Karl Sigmund’s new book Exact Thinking in Demented Times tells the dramatic history of an intellectual revolution. Sometime around 1900, in the spirit of interdisciplinary thinking of the day, the rectors of the University of Vienna decided to appoint physicists to teach philosophy. So they hired leading Austrian physicists Ernst Mach and Ludwig Boltzmann, who gave a scientific turn to...
streaming
There’s so much good television on streaming websites, to say nothing of the films. It’s impossible to keep track of what is worth your while. As spring finally rolls in, use your couch potato time wisely, binging only on the finest, most intriguing shows.  
Heunisch & Erben’s huge wine selection and scrumptious menu make the perfect pairing. Vienna has enjoyed a flurry of wine bistro openings in recent years, with star chef Konstantin Filippou’s O boufés setting the standard. The latest addition, Heunisch & Erben, is more than worthy though, a classy-yet-hip new sprout on Vienna’s culinary tree with dozens of wines available by the...
An Austro-French couple serves viennoiseries to the Viennese. Barely half a year in business, Parémi, the new boulangerie/patisserie by the young Austrian-French couple Patricia Petschenig and Rémi Soulier, has been an instant success. Bringing Gallic delights to a city with a sweet tooth, it fills a void among the many excellent, traditonal Konditoreien. Petschenig – petite, with round, horn-rimmed glasses, her...
Krypt
The Krypt updates the speakeasy with award-winning décor and drinks. Little do we think about the space beneath our feet; our cities are full of vastly underutilized underground spaces with heaps of potential. Hidden in the 9th District’s Wasa alley between Sigmund Freud’s former practice and the Votivkirche, the recently opened cocktail bar Krypt shows just how much can be done with a vast 250 m2 vault, seeking...
gol
The Viennese love their white wines young and fresh. Winemakers in Gols would prefer to wait. Farmers the world over complain about the weather – too hot, too cold, too wet, too dry. Wine growers are no different – that is, mostly: The white wine bounty of 2017 has left Austria’s vintners singing praises to the weather gods. Last year...
April showers bring May flowers, but keeping fit, feeling at home and being totally radical are important, too. SUPERCYCLE BOUTIQUE STUDIO Not your grandma’s spin class, SuperCycle blends discotheque, yoga and cycling into a high-intensity, 60-minute indoor workout. With an amazing sound system, charismatic instructors and clublike atmosphere, you’ll snag a vigorous full-body workout – while actually enjoying yourself. Now opening...
A nod to simpler times, the weight of this brass beauty creates optimal weight for long writing, its gel roll design providing exceptionally easy writing flow. Wrapped up in timeless elegance and flair, Nostalgia meets utility, developing its own patina over time. €60 kaweco-pen.com Androgynous and ethereal, this cream-colored ensemble drapes the wearer in luxurious linen, expertly tailored to accent panache...
Vienna International Cycle Club VICC
The Vienna International Cycle Club is a social media success story. It’s a Sunday morning and the clock is approaching ten in the morning. On the Steinitzsteg, the yellow footbridge straddling the Neue Donau, a huddle of around 20 cyclists have gathered for a ride with the Vienna International Cycle Club (VICC). As each new rider approaches the group, they are welcomed by the group’s founder, Stuart Marven, a soft-voiced...
Sasche Peng
A new collection of local hot spots and events to discover! To advertise please contact ads@metropole.at. CAFÉ RITTER OTTAKRING This charming old-style coffee house is quintessentially Viennese and situated smack in the middle of one of Vienna’s trendiest neighborhoods. It’s been an institution since 1907 and holds its own as one of the few traditional coffeehouses in the area. Besides delicious...
To be truly integrated in Vienna there are certain terms no dictionary or Deutschkurs will properly explain. But you’re no stranger, so here’s this month’s cheat sheet. Karambolage Noun. A car crash, particularly multivehicle pileups. Originally from the French game carambole, an older version of billiards played with three balls and no pockets. The goal is to score points by making shots...