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Vienna
Wednesday, January 16, 2019

Grätzl

Quick guides to Vienna’s off-the-beaten-track micro-neighborhoods

United We Eat If you’re accustomed to the glitz and Old World charm of Vienna’s inner city, stepping out of tram No. 46 on Brunnengasse can transport you to another world: A sea of market stalls opens up in front of you, selling produce for the fairest price in town; the locals going about their shopping seem to be from...
If Goldilocks had to choose a neighborhood in Vienna, it might be Altlerchenfeld. Laidback yet central, this neighborhood strikes the perfect balance – not too trendy, but exciting enough; not too crowded, but still colorful, with an even mix of age groups, ethnicities and lifestyles. Most importantly, with the U6 subway as well as the 46 and 5 trams nearby,...
As hard as it is to find solitude in a city of almost two million, it’s far from impossible: at the Lainzer Tiergarten nature preserve in the 13th and 23rd districts, you can have a whole forest to yourself – barring the occasional wild boar. A word of advice: Don’t get too close to the wildlife. At least once...
by Anastasia Gromontova & Binu Starnegg The lure of suburbia, with its promise of the tranquility of country life within city limits, is a strong one. And while Vienna mostly consists of large Gründerzeit apartment buildings and even larger communal Gemeindebauten, the city has not always been immune to the charms of life with a backyard. In fact, for a...
Rising Bazaar Despite a grand hilltop view of stately Schönbrunn palace, a mere four bus stops further, for the locals of Meiselmarkt, the city’s splendor seems a million miles away. Part of Vienna’s 15th district Rudolfsheim-Fünfhaus, the Grätzl is at the center of a rough-and-ready working class immigrant neighborhood that boasts the city’s lowest median ages and incomes – and...
Nestroyviertel
On a little square, tucked away at the bottom of Praterstraße, stands a gentleman cast in iron, his Napoleon collar high on his neck, top hat in hand, making his entry. It’s Johann Nepomuk Nestroy, all around man of the theater, after whom this Grätzl is named. Hardly a household name in the English-speaking world, in Austria, Nestroy is a giant,...
gumpendorf
As dawn breaks in Gumpendorf, you can observe two very different types of early morning creatures: You might catch bearded barroom revolutionaries stumbling out into the glaring sunlight – or you may see young parents carrying organic groceries in cotton bags in one hand and pushing a baby stroller with the other. Each are very different, but both are very...
stadtpark
For all the rolling Prater meadows and vineyards in the Vienna Woods, green space in the city center is in short supply – were it not for the Stadtpark (city park), popular as ever with humans and pigeons as it was in the 19th century. Completed in 1862 during the Ringstrasse project, which saw the city walls razed in favor...
Bermudadreieck Vienna
Ominously named after the mysterious navigational hazard that allegedly claims countless vessels in the Caribbean, Vienna’s Bermudadreieck (Bermuda Triangle) is an adventure, particularly on weekends The jocular nickname for the area between Schwedenplatz, Marc-Aurel-Strasse, Hoher Markt and Rabensteig was coined during the 1980s, based on tales of students and party animals who might disappear there for days and afterwards claim...
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