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Vienna
Tuesday, July 17, 2018

Grätzl

Quick guides to Vienna's off-the-beaten-track micro-neighborhoods

by Anastasia Gromontova & Binu StarneggThe lure of suburbia, with its promise of the tranquility of country life within city limits, is a strong one. And while Vienna mostly consists of large Gründerzeit apartment buildings and even larger communal Gemeindebauten, the city has not always been immune to the charms of life with a backyard. In fact, for a...
Rising BazaarDespite a grand hilltop view of stately Schönbrunn palace, a mere four bus stops further, for the locals of Meiselmarkt, the city’s splendor seems a million miles away. Part of Vienna’s 15th district Rudolfsheim-Fünfhaus, the Grätzl is at the center of a rough-and-ready working class immigrant neighborhood that boasts the city’s lowest median ages and incomes – and...
Nestroyviertel
On a little square, tucked away at the bottom of Praterstraße, stands a gentleman cast in iron, his Napoleon collar high on his neck, top hat in hand, making his entry. It’s Johann Nepomuk Nestroy, all around man of the theater, after whom this Grätzl is named.Hardly a household name in the English-speaking world, in Austria, Nestroy is a giant,...
gumpendorf
As dawn breaks in Gumpendorf, you can observe two very different types of early morning creatures: You might catch bearded barroom revolutionaries stumbling out into the glaring sunlight – or you may see young parents carrying organic groceries in cotton bags in one hand and pushing a baby stroller with the other.Each are very different, but both are very...
stadtpark
For all the rolling Prater meadows and vineyards in the Vienna Woods, green space in the city center is in short supply – were it not for the Stadtpark (city park), popular as ever with humans and pigeons as it was in the 19th century. Completed in 1862 during the Ringstrasse project, which saw the city walls razed in favor...
Bermudadreieck Vienna
Ominously named after the mysterious navigational hazard that allegedly claims countless vessels in the Caribbean, Vienna’s Bermudadreieck (Bermuda Triangle) is an adventure, particularly on weekendsThe jocular nickname for the area between Schwedenplatz, Marc-Aurel-Strasse, Hoher Markt and Rabensteig was coined during the 1980s, based on tales of students and party animals who might disappear there for days and afterwards claim...
alt-hietzing
On a warm Sunday morning in Alt-Hietzing, an elderly lady pushes her walker along the old wooden parquet terrace of Café Dommayer, a coffeehouse where dukes and duchesses strolled in days past. Famous in the 19th century as a dance hall where Johann Strauss Sr. and Jr. both performed, it was recently added to the Kurkonditorei Oberlaa empire. But nothing...
stuwerviertel vienna
The Stuwerviertel is an anomaly, both more and less than meets the eye: Wedged in between the Prater, Mexikoplatz and Ausstellungsstrasse, it’s quiet, unimposing, with wide alleys lush with trees and venerable Altbau apartment houses that suggest a comfortable, residential neighborhood where you might find the occasional café, tavern or antique store.But despite its fine housing stock and central...
grätzl vienna neustift am walde
There’s no question: Vienna loves its wine and the traditions that go with it. And few areas of the city encapsulate Vienna’s enduring love for liquid cheer than sleepy, picturesque Neustift am Walde.Straddling the western outskirts of the 18th and 19th districts and near the Höhenstrasse, Vienna’s scenic Wienerwald thoroughfare, Neustift am Walde retains a distinct village ambiance, despite...
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