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Vienna
Friday, July 20, 2018

Grätzl

Quick guides to Vienna's off-the-beaten-track micro-neighborhoods

naschmarkt
Or how a culinary melting pot became the city's favorite Bobo BazaarEven in staunchly nostalgic Vienna, neighborhoods change. The Naschmarkt is a prime example: Wedged between the left and right Wienzeiles between Kettenbrückengasse and Getreidemarkt, it is officially the city’s largest open-air market, but has been transformed since the early 2000s as about half of the stalls have given...
My Home is My Grätzl This month: the Weißgerberviertel in Vienna's 3rd districtOne sunny weekend in February, I set off with two friends to explore the Weißgerberviertel in Vienna’s 3rd district. I was curious, and “it is desire that creates new worlds,” poet Jeannie Ebner had written at the nearby Café Zartl on Rasumofskygasse. “But impatience destroys them before their...
St. Ulrich
St. Ulrich: Cradle of CoolOut of all the neighborhoods of the hip 7th district, St. Ulrich stands apart. A hub of local and expat intellectuals, creatives, and young entrepreneurs, the area wedged between Burggasse and Neustiftgasse from Volkstheater to Neubaugasse is a flourishing cosmopolitan locale like the rest of the vicinity. But St. Ulrich has another claim to fame: it...
When I first strolled under the lush canopies of the Vienna Woods, described in the pages of Elfriede Jelinek’s The Piano Teacher, I never imagined I would one day be living there.But now, 15 years later, here I am, taking daily walks around Pötzleinsdorf, a charming hamlet on the residential edge of the Wienerwald in the 18th district, waiting...
wurstelprater
Carnival for all SeasonsAt the Wurstelprater, it’s always show time. Through the quaint grandeur of the entrance arch, its Grand Square spreads out in a comic masterpiece of faux-baroque and terraced cafés, paint box theaters and a generous use of trompe-l’œil. The atmosphere is almost dreamlike, preserving the quality of yesteryear in a stage set for diversion. It’s all...
Between the talks and networking, try these lunch spots, museums and sights you should visit while attending the Pioneers Festival 2017.First mentioned in 1279, the Hofburg was originally a castle and part of the city’s fortifications. With 16 wings, over 2,600 rooms, the former seat of imperial power and winter residence of the Habsburgs is a city unto itself. With the...
Gußhausviertel
GußhausviertelTaking a stroll just behind Karlskirche into the 4th district is a calming experience. Gone is the buzz of tourists and traffic snaking its way through the city. Instead, the streets are filled with venerable Palais and townhouses that often host foreign embassies, giving it a quiet sense of purpose; some would say a call of duty to their...
old university quarter
A tradition of temptationIn medieval Vienna, the hilly streets of the northeast quarter – encompassed by Rotenturmstraße, Fleischmarkt, Stubenring and the Wollzeile – was home to Vienna’s Old University, and the pleasure establishments that catered to idle scholars. Wealthy gentlemen and rowdy students alike would frequent the many inns and go to the Badestuben (bath houses) to stew. This...
Karmelitermarkt – Karmeliterviertel
Hard to pin down, but easy to love, this quirky corner of the city has a surprise almost at every turn. By Dardis McNamee & Rosie WaitesWhen we moved to the Karmeliterviertel in 2001, friends thought we were mad.  “You’re going to live where?” This off-beat neighborhood has long been a slightly suspect potpourri of working-class Austrians and immigrants of...
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