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Vienna
Monday, July 16, 2018

Grätzl

Quick guides to Vienna's off-the-beaten-track micro-neighborhoods

True independence comes from within this neighborhood, where high-rent and low-budget meet at every corner. It’s centrally located in the 4th district, not far from Karlsplatz and just behind the Technical University, with the Naschmarkt, the city’s most famous market, forming the northern boundary. Yet this is where artsy locals and students spend their time, meeting up in cafes...
Nestroyviertel
On a little square, tucked away at the bottom of Praterstraße, stands a gentleman cast in iron, his Napoleon collar high on his neck, top hat in hand, making his entry. It’s Johann Nepomuk Nestroy, all around man of the theater, after whom this Grätzl is named.Hardly a household name in the English-speaking world, in Austria, Nestroy is a giant,...
Karmelitermarkt – Karmeliterviertel
Hard to pin down, but easy to love, this quirky corner of the city has a surprise almost at every turn. By Dardis McNamee & Rosie WaitesWhen we moved to the Karmeliterviertel in 2001, friends thought we were mad.  “You’re going to live where?” This off-beat neighborhood has long been a slightly suspect potpourri of working-class Austrians and immigrants of...
naschmarkt
Or how a culinary melting pot became the city's favorite Bobo BazaarEven in staunchly nostalgic Vienna, neighborhoods change. The Naschmarkt is a prime example: Wedged between the left and right Wienzeiles between Kettenbrückengasse and Getreidemarkt, it is officially the city’s largest open-air market, but has been transformed since the early 2000s as about half of the stalls have given...
old university quarter
A tradition of temptationIn medieval Vienna, the hilly streets of the northeast quarter – encompassed by Rotenturmstraße, Fleischmarkt, Stubenring and the Wollzeile – was home to Vienna’s Old University, and the pleasure establishments that catered to idle scholars. Wealthy gentlemen and rowdy students alike would frequent the many inns and go to the Badestuben (bath houses) to stew. This...
When I first strolled under the lush canopies of the Vienna Woods, described in the pages of Elfriede Jelinek’s The Piano Teacher, I never imagined I would one day be living there.But now, 15 years later, here I am, taking daily walks around Pötzleinsdorf, a charming hamlet on the residential edge of the Wienerwald in the 18th district, waiting...
grätzl
Just a block below Mariahilfer Straße, commerce gives way to side streets full of trendy bars, galleries, clubs and restaurants, anchored by a park with a large playground, old trees and a soccer/basketball cage This is Esterhazypark: An early target of gentrification, the area attracts an eclectic mix of wealthy urbanites, college students and young creatives, with 51 percent of apartments...
stadtpark
For all the rolling Prater meadows and vineyards in the Vienna Woods, green space in the city center is in short supply – were it not for the Stadtpark (city park), popular as ever with humans and pigeons as it was in the 19th century. Completed in 1862 during the Ringstrasse project, which saw the city walls razed in favor...
St. Ulrich
St. Ulrich: Cradle of CoolOut of all the neighborhoods of the hip 7th district, St. Ulrich stands apart. A hub of local and expat intellectuals, creatives, and young entrepreneurs, the area wedged between Burggasse and Neustiftgasse from Volkstheater to Neubaugasse is a flourishing cosmopolitan locale like the rest of the vicinity. But St. Ulrich has another claim to fame: it...
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