11 C
Vienna
Sunday, October 21, 2018

Grätzl

Quick guides to Vienna’s off-the-beaten-track micro-neighborhoods

My Home is My Grätzl This month: the Weißgerberviertel in Vienna's 3rd district One sunny weekend in February, I set off with two friends to explore the Weißgerberviertel in Vienna’s 3rd district. I was curious, and “it is desire that creates new worlds,” poet Jeannie Ebner had written at the nearby Café Zartl on Rasumofskygasse. “But impatience destroys them before their...
by Anastasia Gromontova & Binu Starnegg The lure of suburbia, with its promise of the tranquility of country life within city limits, is a strong one. And while Vienna mostly consists of large Gründerzeit apartment buildings and even larger communal Gemeindebauten, the city has not always been immune to the charms of life with a backyard. In fact, for a...
old university quarter
A tradition of temptation In medieval Vienna, the hilly streets of the northeast quarter – encompassed by Rotenturmstraße, Fleischmarkt, Stubenring and the Wollzeile – was home to Vienna’s Old University, and the pleasure establishments that catered to idle scholars. Wealthy gentlemen and rowdy students alike would frequent the many inns and go to the Badestuben (bath houses) to stew. This...
Alte Donau
Peppered with silver and black poplar trees casting welcome shadows, the shores of the Alte Donau (Old Danube) make it easy to forget that you’re only a few subway stops away from the 1st district. Small wooden piers dot the shore, serving as diving platforms for the youngsters playing on the tranquil banks, as the sunset deepens behind the gleaming...
naschmarkt
Or how a culinary melting pot became the city's favorite Bobo Bazaar Even in staunchly nostalgic Vienna, neighborhoods change. The Naschmarkt is a prime example: Wedged between the left and right Wienzeiles between Kettenbrückengasse and Getreidemarkt, it is officially the city’s largest open-air market, but has been transformed since the early 2000s as about half of the stalls have given...
St. Ulrich
St. Ulrich: Cradle of Cool Out of all the neighborhoods of the hip 7th district, St. Ulrich stands apart. A hub of local and expat intellectuals, creatives, and young entrepreneurs, the area wedged between Burggasse and Neustiftgasse from Volkstheater to Neubaugasse is a flourishing cosmopolitan locale like the rest of the vicinity. But St. Ulrich has another claim to fame: it...
Bermudadreieck Vienna
Ominously named after the mysterious navigational hazard that allegedly claims countless vessels in the Caribbean, Vienna’s Bermudadreieck (Bermuda Triangle) is an adventure, particularly on weekends The jocular nickname for the area between Schwedenplatz, Marc-Aurel-Strasse, Hoher Markt and Rabensteig was coined during the 1980s, based on tales of students and party animals who might disappear there for days and afterwards claim...
grätzl
Wedged between the lively arteries of Wiedner Hauptstrasse and Margaretenstrasse, Mittersteig is a mostly residential area with some hidden gems For years, cycling down Mittersteig was just part of my daily commute from the 12th district to the inner city. Mornings and afternoons were always calm and uneventful, much like the neighborhood itself, almost making me feel like an intruder...
In mid-autumn, it is already dark by 19:00 in Vienna. Crossing the Ring at Schottentor, the street glistens under the glow of the streetlamps in the light rain, as passersby take shelter under the columned portico of the Bank Austria building. Completed in 1912, just two years before the Great War, this magnificent Bankhaus on Schottengasse was state of the...
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