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Vienna
Tuesday, January 23, 2018

Grätzl

Quick guides to Vienna's off-the-beaten-track micro-neighborhoods

Gußhausviertel
GußhausviertelTaking a stroll just behind Karlskirche into the 4th district is a calming experience. Gone is the buzz of tourists and traffic snaking its way through the city. Instead, the streets are filled with venerable Palais and townhouses that often host foreign embassies, giving it a quiet sense of purpose; some would say a call of duty to their...
Kohlmarkt
High Street HighIf elegance and sophistication had an address, Kohlmarkt would be it. Connecting two must-sees, the Hofburg and the Graben, it is home to luxury brands such as Tiffany, Fendi and Gucci, with price tags in storefronts exceeding the average salary. During Advent, seemingly endless strings of Christmas lights beam down like glowing rain, hanging so densely they...
grätzl
Wedged between the lively arteries of Wiedner Hauptstrasse and Margaretenstrasse, Mittersteig is a mostly residential area with some hidden gemsFor years, cycling down Mittersteig was just part of my daily commute from the 12th district to the inner city. Mornings and afternoons were always calm and uneventful, much like the neighborhood itself, almost making me feel like an intruder...
grätzl
Just a block below Mariahilfer Straße, commerce gives way to side streets full of trendy bars, galleries, clubs and restaurants, anchored by a park with a large playground, old trees and a soccer/basketball cage This is Esterhazypark: An early target of gentrification, the area attracts an eclectic mix of wealthy urbanites, college students and young creatives, with 51 percent of apartments...
grätzl oberdobling
Vienna’s hilly north side may be cozy but not sleepyThe 19th district, Döbling, is one of Vienna’s “noble” districts:  along with Hietzing (13th) or Währing (18th), among the most desired. Its name stems from an old Slavic word for a marsh or creek – probably a reference to the Krottenbach, a stream near the original 12th-century settlement.Most people come...
Piaristenviertel
Students and professors, officials and artists all feel at home in this venerable neighborhoodIf location is everything, the Piaristenviertel in Vienna’s 8th district has it all: Within walking distance of the university, City Hall and the government district, it has long attracted both civil servants and intelligentsia, living in harmony in neighborhood cafés and restaurants, both trendy and traditional.It’s...
Karmelitermarkt – Karmeliterviertel
Hard to pin down, but easy to love, this quirky corner of the city has a surprise almost at every turn. By Dardis McNamee & Rosie WaitesWhen we moved to the Karmeliterviertel in 2001, friends thought we were mad.  “You’re going to live where?” This off-beat neighborhood has long been a slightly suspect potpourri of working-class Austrians and immigrants of...
The Viennese can be a tad formal at times: strings of titles, hand kissing, fancy dress.  But when you’ve had the Hofburg down the street for some 750 years, it can gradually make an impression. With 16 wings, over 2,600 rooms, the former seat of imperial power and winter residence of the Habsburgs is a city unto itself. With the...
When I first strolled under the lush canopies of the Vienna Woods, described in the pages of Elfriede Jelinek’s The Piano Teacher, I never imagined I would one day be living there.But now, 15 years later, here I am, taking daily walks around Pötzleinsdorf, a charming hamlet on the residential edge of the Wienerwald in the 18th district, waiting...
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