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Vienna
Wednesday, April 18, 2018

Grätzl

Quick guides to Vienna's off-the-beaten-track micro-neighborhoods

wurstelprater
Carnival for all SeasonsAt the Wurstelprater, it’s always show time. Through the quaint grandeur of the entrance arch, its Grand Square spreads out in a comic masterpiece of faux-baroque and terraced cafés, paint box theaters and a generous use of trompe-l’œil. The atmosphere is almost dreamlike, preserving the quality of yesteryear in a stage set for diversion. It’s all...
St. Ulrich
St. Ulrich: Cradle of CoolOut of all the neighborhoods of the hip 7th district, St. Ulrich stands apart. A hub of local and expat intellectuals, creatives, and young entrepreneurs, the area wedged between Burggasse and Neustiftgasse from Volkstheater to Neubaugasse is a flourishing cosmopolitan locale like the rest of the vicinity. But St. Ulrich has another claim to fame: it...
old university quarter
A tradition of temptationIn medieval Vienna, the hilly streets of the northeast quarter – encompassed by Rotenturmstraße, Fleischmarkt, Stubenring and the Wollzeile – was home to Vienna’s Old University, and the pleasure establishments that catered to idle scholars. Wealthy gentlemen and rowdy students alike would frequent the many inns and go to the Badestuben (bath houses) to stew. This...
Gußhausviertel
GußhausviertelTaking a stroll just behind Karlskirche into the 4th district is a calming experience. Gone is the buzz of tourists and traffic snaking its way through the city. Instead, the streets are filled with venerable Palais and townhouses that often host foreign embassies, giving it a quiet sense of purpose; some would say a call of duty to their...
Kohlmarkt
High Street HighIf elegance and sophistication had an address, Kohlmarkt would be it. Connecting two must-sees, the Hofburg and the Graben, it is home to luxury brands such as Tiffany, Fendi and Gucci, with price tags in storefronts exceeding the average salary. During Advent, seemingly endless strings of Christmas lights beam down like glowing rain, hanging so densely they...
grätzl
Wedged between the lively arteries of Wiedner Hauptstrasse and Margaretenstrasse, Mittersteig is a mostly residential area with some hidden gemsFor years, cycling down Mittersteig was just part of my daily commute from the 12th district to the inner city. Mornings and afternoons were always calm and uneventful, much like the neighborhood itself, almost making me feel like an intruder...
grätzl
Just a block below Mariahilfer Straße, commerce gives way to side streets full of trendy bars, galleries, clubs and restaurants, anchored by a park with a large playground, old trees and a soccer/basketball cage This is Esterhazypark: An early target of gentrification, the area attracts an eclectic mix of wealthy urbanites, college students and young creatives, with 51 percent of apartments...
grätzl oberdobling
Vienna’s hilly north side may be cozy but not sleepyThe 19th district, Döbling, is one of Vienna’s “noble” districts:  along with Hietzing (13th) or Währing (18th), among the most desired. Its name stems from an old Slavic word for a marsh or creek – probably a reference to the Krottenbach, a stream near the original 12th-century settlement.Most people come...
Piaristenviertel
Students and professors, officials and artists all feel at home in this venerable neighborhoodIf location is everything, the Piaristenviertel in Vienna’s 8th district has it all: Within walking distance of the university, City Hall and the government district, it has long attracted both civil servants and intelligentsia, living in harmony in neighborhood cafés and restaurants, both trendy and traditional.It’s...
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