editors letter nostalgia
It was all so much simpler then. Back when we were innocent, when we treated each other with respect, communicated without smartphones and buildings were built to last. Sure it was. In memory, we merge reality with idealized editions of the past and repackage it into nostalgia. It may be one of the strongest, most powerful emotions of the collective consciousness. The refrain, “früher hätt’s des net...
readers december 2017
Many thanks for your thoughts, ideas and insights! If you have something to say about Vienna or a story you read here, tell us all about it. Send an email to office@metropole.at. Dear Metropole staff, (In response to several Facebook posts regarding Metropole in various expat social media groups) We’ve been Metropole subscribers for over a year now – actually since we...
social media detox
I just uploaded a selfie onto Instagram, complete with a sophisticated quote, imperceptibly blurred, and some contrast to underline the color of my eyes. Now I’m waiting. Waiting for that like. Mr. Serious must have seen it, 30 minutes have passed already. But no like, yet. I mean, I got 32 likes, but none of them counts. I want that...
vienna unfriendly
No one can say Vienna is a sore loser. After Austrian media picked up the Expat Insider study’s City Index ranking Vienna the second least friendly city for expats, the “news” spread like wildfire. The tone of many of the tabloids like Heute and OE24 was dismissive, à la “we all knew the Viennese were this way, now here’s some...
cultural amnesia
The exuberance of the early 2000s has given way to mistrust, but catastrophe can be avoided if we keep a close eye on the past In 2007, Australian literary critic Clive James published an extraordinary collection of portrait essays on the thinkers of the 20th century that had shaped his intellectual life. Called Cultural Amnesia – Notes in the Margin...
Austrian Bureaucracy
Beamter: Check out any decent dictionary and it will show a string of translations – official, clerk, functionary, civil servant etc. – none of which do justice to the soul of that mystical creature, the Austrian bureaucrat Older arrivals will remember the Stempelmarken, amusing now, irritating then. The game was as follows: You’re in line to get some papers fixed....
future ai
Can we control the spread of AI and robots into every aspect of our lives? Sophia has been granted citizenship by Saudi Arabia; she has been a star guest on the “Tonight Show” and her patented “frubber” face has been on the cover of Elle magazine. Speaking at the International Broadcasting Convention in September, her creator David Hanson promised to...
austrian media november
A quick-and-dirty synopsis of last month’s headlines in Vienna Coalition Talks Proceed, Parliament Assembles Sebastian Kurz, leader of the conservative Austrian People’s Party (ÖVP), has invited the Freedom Party (FPÖ) to coalition talks following his victory at the national election on October 15. The Social Democrats, of outgoing chancellor Christian Kern, vowed to go into opposition after a short meeting of...
maria großbauer
Maria Großbauer, Vienna’s youngest-ever Opera Ball director on sugarcoated memories, the importance of storytelling and why debutantes should wear their hair up On the way to meet Maria Großbauer, the new director of the most famous and prestigious ball in the world, I’m guided through hidden corridors between the backstage area and public access to the loge boxes. A clunky...
nostalgia vienna
In every age, the pressures of change in Vienna have stirred a longing for better times gone by, often more imagined than real, but nonetheless central to our idea of who we are In November of 2004, the newly christened Wien Museum threw open the portals of the Künstlerhaus on “Alt-Wien – die Stadt die niemals war” – “Old Vienna,...
How Stefan Zweig set out and found himself isolated in a faraway land The snowy white villa where Stefan and Lotte Zweig once lived, and where they took their own lives, is perched under terracotta roofs over a busy street in Petrópolis, in southeastern Brazil. The noise of traffic and day laborers nearly overshadows the tufts of lush greenery and...
Florian Kaps
We talked to four guardians of our collective consciousness in the world of photography, hospitality, urban history and children’s books “Ninety-eight percent of what we do is analog: think, eat, walk, breathe, kiss – in other words, the things that make us feel human and happy.” When I walked into the analog concept store Supersense, I was expecting to see, hear, and touch...
Gerstner Director Oliver Braun
We talked to four guardians of our collective consciousness in the world of photography, hospitality, urban history and children’s books “None of us has reinvented the wheel. And no one has invented anything to replace it either. Often one must draw on very old things to further develop new ones.” Meeting up with Gerstner CEO Oliver Braun at the company’s headquarters at the...
matti bunzl
We talked to four guardians of our collective consciousness in the world of photography, hospitality, urban history and children’s books “As a successor state of a once global empire, modern Austria has a kind of systemic nostalgia built into its structure.” Nostalgia is an elusive concept for Matti Bunzl: An Austrian-American historian who has lived half his life in Vienna and half in...
Thomas Brezina
We talked to four guardians of our collective consciousness in the world of photography, hospitality, urban history and children’s books “In the world around us, there's more and more uncertainty. This is when a kind of nostalgia kicks in and people want to return to the safety and comfort of their favorite childhood shows and books.” If you’re an English speaker, you might...
dance vienna
This year, the dance floor can be yours. With these tips, you’ll have all the moves to wow the ball season crowd I’m sitting on a white, soft sofa in a changing room; next to me a guy is tying his black shoes, polished to a mirror shine. He’s embarrassed, but at the same time can’t hide a smile. We’re at the...
Lobmeyr
What would Vienna’s palaces be without their brilliant chandeliers, gleaming mirrors and fine crystal glasses?Uniting craftsmanship and innovation, the Viennese company Lobmeyr has made them shine for 200 years As you step inside the Golden Hall of the Musikverein, you travel back to the glorious days of elegance, luxury and craftsmanship of fin de siècle Vienna. Gazing around the concert hall, which...
MyHive
Steel, glass, concrete and marble.The design of most modern office buildings – while elegant and sophisticated – can feel cold and impersonal. Receptionists hide behind large desks and people don’t talk to each other Today's Work Environment Needs to be Different A study by futurologist Winston Brill shows that 98% of innovations happen through social interaction, outside of meetings. Distance is...
emotion nostalgia
Science is coming to grips with a complex emotion that was once dismissed as sentimental or downright pathological It was a way to survive: “We used our memories to temporarily alter our perception of the state we were in. It was not a solution. But the temporary change in perception allowed you to persevere just a bit longer,” a concentration...
technisches museum wien exhibition urban future
The Technisches Museum Wien invites us to explore our past imaginings of what was to come, and how we dare to dream today Vienna’s Technical Museum is in the business of making predictions: for instance, that our future will be urban, our vehicles electric and our power more renewable. But they also understand the limits; so much can happen that...
Jewish Vienna
Our community is small, but thriving. Ever more diverse, Vienna's Jews are making waves on every level By Sara Friedman & Benjamin Wolf Silently, the breadcrumbs slipped back into the deep woolen pockets. They were supposed to feed the fish in the Donaukanal on a cold autumn day. But this time, it was different for the small group that gathered by...
Leonard Bernstein
per Leonard Bernstein’s nephew explores the icon’s love for the city of Beethoven, Brahms and Mahler and how it helped him overcome Austria’s Nazi past. Mounted outside Vienna’s Konzerthaus entrance is a bronze plaque displaying the profile of Gustav Mahler. Its inscription marks the date – June 3, 1945 – when “the art of this great musician” – banned as “degenerate”...
Bermudadreieck Vienna
Ominously named after the mysterious navigational hazard that allegedly claims countless vessels in the Caribbean, Vienna’s Bermudadreieck (Bermuda Triangle) is an adventure, particularly on weekends The jocular nickname for the area between Schwedenplatz, Marc-Aurel-Strasse, Hoher Markt and Rabensteig was coined during the 1980s, based on tales of students and party animals who might disappear there for days and afterwards claim...
Harri Stojka
Viennese music legend Harri Stojka looks ahead at 60 There’s very little certainty in the life and career of an artist. Musical trends and creative triumphs come and go, and so do most musicians’ fortunes. In a career spanning more than four decades, Viennese guitar virtuoso Harri Stojka has found a way to stay relevant even as others around him...
Alma Mahler Vienna
Founded this year by young professional musicians from all over Europe, the Alma Mahler Kammerorchester celebrates music without borders while deconstructing chamber music from the 19th and 20th centuries as well as contemporary classical works. More intimate than full orchestral symphonies, chamber music was initially intended for home performances by anywhere between 3 and 40 musicians, enticing with a subtlety...
Morgan James Vienna
The rising diva graces the Vienna jazz firmament A new star on the jazz-horizon, Morgan James – who cut her teeth with covers of Aretha Franklin, Prince, Sam Smith, and her work with the popular Postmodern Jukebox – is now on tour in Europe supporting her first full album of original material, Reckless Abandon. Celebrated as a “phenomenal talent” by The...
heimat:machen volkskundemuseum
The past is only foreign if you deny its powerful impact on the present Thanks to fresh research by curators Birgit Johler und Magdalena Puchberger, the exhibition Heimat:Machen (Creating:Homeland) at the Volkskundemuseum (The Austrian Museum of Folk Life and Folk Art) reveals not only how a powerful national identity was built on simplistic rural objects and imagery, but how the...
University Applied Arts 150 Vienna
A spawning ground for many venerable creators, the Universität für Angewandte Kunst (University of Applied Arts) – or Angewandte for short – is celebrating its 150th birthday, looking back while looking forward with the exhibition Ästhetik der Veränderung (Aesthetic of Change), a two-part show. Part one has its eye on the past, illuminating the Angewandte’s rich history with over 400...
Polaroid project
Predating Instagram by several decades, Polaroid’s instant photographs were a hit from the mid-20th century up to the digital revolution, fitting all darkroom procedures inside the camera and promising the “60-second excitement.” While never displacing conventional film, artists and consumers alike loved the spontaneity of the format, with the 1970s-era SX-70 in particular defining the technology everyone had to try...
white rabbit red rabbit vienna
Nassim Soleimanpour has traveled the world without leaving his native Iran. Vienna’s Spektakel theater reserved a first row seat for the playwright, but it was empty during the performance of his maiden experimental play, White Rabbit Red Rabbit. Yet Soleimanpour was there. To solve this riddle, it helps to know that during the first two years of the play’s worldwide...
margaret cho vienna
Blunt and fearless, Margaret Cho is a real groundbreaker in her field of comedy, getting a rise from audiences since exploding on stage in the early 1990s. Tirelessly taking on controversial subjects with scathing observations has become her trademark, as well as criticizing current affairs. Recently named one of the 50 best stand-up comedians by Rolling Stone magazine, she has...
wait until dark vienna
Home invasions and darkness are two of our most primal fears – and excellent ingredients for a great thriller, as Frederick Knott succinctly proves in his play Wait Until Dark. Famously adapted for the screen in 1967 with Audrey Hepburn, the plot is fast-paced (and somewhat convoluted), culminating in criminals Mike (Chris Polick) and Croker (Simon Lloyd) intimidating blind housewife...
vintage movie theatres vienna
Vienna’s vintage movie theatres endure and thrive with niche programming. Cinema is a young medium, around for just over a century. But it’s made up for it with nostalgia. Self-referential and prone to looking back, some of the greatest films are about cinema itself, like Billy Wilder’s Sunset Boulevard, Giuseppe Tornatore’s Cinema Paradiso or Martin Scorsese’s Hugo. And since it’s...
loving vincent movie
Loving Vincent recreates van Gogh’s artwork in animated oil paintings If painters express themselves through their art, biographers are at a disadvantage: they may capture the person, but their message might prove harder. Unless, of course, you make that message the medium. Loving Vincent, a new take on the life and work of Vincent van Gogh, manages just that by...
Irony Perloff
The 1920s in Vienna was a time of despair and confusion in a world of lost empire, political upheaval and the trauma of war. Despite the progressive politics for the working class, cultural critic Marjorie Perloff reads the era as a time of crisis, of a disoriented national identity and a foreshadowing of the war to come. Faced with an...
whole life
Andreas Egger lives a life bordering on the vegetative, both figuratively and literally: His dwelling is high above the valley, at the tree line; and his days are mostly passed in wordless labor. Unlike Seethaler’s earlier heroes of marginalized life – each of whom had his own Grand Tour – the protagonist of A Whole Life almost never leaves the...
photoshoot nostalgia
We retreat into nostalgia for comfort, for the feeling of being in a time period that is better than the present. We project meaning, romance and allure onto objects and settings in an attempt to flee our uncomfortable realities. For the nostalgia issue, we visited one of Vienna’s most treasured small theaters, the Ateliertheater. Opened on the Naschmarkt in 1932, it didn’t make it to its current location on Burggasse until 1999. So all the...
brands vienna
Our memories are sugarcoated. The games we played, the clothes we wore, how we got from point A to B make us feel like a kid again. MADRID SKATEBOARDS Long before the character Max Mayfield, from “Stranger Things 2” made Madrid Skateboards famous with Netflix audiences, the Californian company was well known in the skateboard industry. Jerry Madrid, who founded the company in 1976 in...
Vintage Frameshore
For this issue, we chose two shops that will give your home some nostalgic air, and if you haven’t settled yet, there’s a new place called Oliver that makes feeling at home a cinch. OLIVER* To feel like you’ve arrived in a new city, the main thing is to feel at home there. At Oliver the apartments and studios are designed...
ali rabbani favorite things december
If there is one bit of nostalgia that foreigners and tourists associate with Austria: It’s the Rodgers and Hammerstein musical The Sound of Music, made popular by the 1965 film starring Julie Andrews. We dedicate this month to those gift-giving expats for whom these favorite things awaken memories of childhood. This idyllic town was founded because of the rich salt resources and became famous for its enchanting location, so much so that the Chinese made a carbon copy back home. We would wait here for winter...
vintage wine vienna
The unique qualities of older vintages aren’t apparent, so let an expert’s insight guide you. Old wines hold a certain mystery. With their dusty labels, shelved away in chilly cellars, their allure is in the rediscovery. Like a message in a bottle (quite literally), the value of the contents has as much to do with its transformation as with the...
christkindlmärkte
'tis the season to drink outdoors at Vienna’s Christkindlmärkte Traditions can be tricky; not everything our ancestors did is worth keeping alive. Austria’s holiday season is no exception, the Krampusläufe (Krampus runs) on December 5 often provoking controversy. With young men dressing up as Kramperl (an infernal sidekick of St. Nicolas) and terrorizing naughty children, this traditional chastisement sometimes gets out of hand. But one local tradition stands...
spelunke vienna
Spelunke does dark and swanky for trendy businesspeople In German, a Spelunke is a dark and shabby bar, often hidden in a grotty backstreet near a harbor. Not unappealing to Viennese, who have a soft spot for the shady and ugly underneath their noble veneers, even if the closest we have to a port is the Danube Canal – which,...
gerstner
In the ornate Palais Todesco, right across from the Vienna State Opera, Gerstner hosts a Viennese Sunday brunch that will wow visitors and locals alike. Guests enjoy a choice selection of Viennese cuisine surrounded by gilded moldings and historic ceiling frescos, grand fire places and detailed wood paneling in its restaurant on the second floor. From 11:00 to 14:00, guests can enjoy a delicious appetizer buffet with cuts of veal tenderloin, Volcano ham and crab salad. Main courses are prepared fresh by Gerstner’s chefs...
joseph brot vienna
Producing handmade organically sourced bagels the traditional way is a labor of love: It takes three days just to make the dough and another four to give them that satisfying crunch while keeping the inside pleasantly smooth. But Josef Weghaupt, founder of the Joseph Brot bakeries, feels it’s worth it, opening a Bagelmanufaktur (bagel factory) right on Albertinaplatz. Weghaupt entered his...
Travel Kinderhotels
Kinderhotels are the vacation secret your kids want you to know. By Erin East Let’s play a game. It’s a simple one, not difficult at all. It’s called “Spot the family who just got back from holiday.” I’ll give you a hint: Your typical family vacation survivors look like weary, shell-shocked veterans. Dishevelled couples lug piles of toys, athletic equipment and over flowing...
Yoga Vienna
Yoga in Vienna is on the rise and could just cure your winter blues. Every day, the mat meets you where you are. Yesterday’s pestilent hangover is reduced to a mild pulse in my temple, followed by a slight twitch. My age-old ankle sprain radiates like guitar chords from hell, twanging up my leg. My fingers spread to balance the weight...
city guide vienna december january
A new collection of local hot spots and events to discover! To advertise please contact ads@metropole.at MINA & LOLA FAMILY CONCEPT STORE If you’re looking for design and quality, look no further than this family concept store. At Mina & Lola you’ll find exceptional brands from Italy, Iceland and London, real eye-catchers that set themselves apart and are made from organic...
bassena meaning
To be truly integrated in Vienna there are certain terms no dictionary or Deutschkurs will properly explain. But you’re no stranger, so here’s this month’s cheat sheet. BASSENA Noun. Orig., either French basin or Italian bacino, both meaning basin;a communal water tap with an enamel sink located on the landing of an Altbau (old apartment building, generally pre-WWI). In times past, running water...
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