letter from the editor
A Penny for your DreamsEver heard the quote “Find a job that you love and you’ll never work a day of your life”? It’s Confucius. And in this case, I fear, the great man was full of it.What if the profession I love is dying? What if no one’s looking for a blacksmith or a piano tuner? For a...
letters to the editor
Many thanks for your thoughts, ideas and insights! If you have something to say about Vienna or a story you read here, tell us all about it. Send an email to office@metropole.at. And check us out on Facebook, Instagram and Twitter.DEAR EDITORS OF METROPOLE:Finding myself currently living outside of Vienna, I sometimes find myself wanting to know what is...
kroiß
In the current political climate, trust is at a premium. So Gerhard Kroiß (FPÖ), the deputy mayor of Wels in Lower Austria, decided it was time for the naked truth He invited his constituents to a “citizen talk” in the Welldorado Sauna.  From 17:00 to 19:00 on February 15, they would meet in the sauna buffet, and then retire for...
brexit
Calling ‘the pain large, the gain illusory,’ the former PM’s last-ditch effort to undo BrexitTony Blair has just given Britain another chance.  Speaking at an Open Britain event in central London February 17, he announced a coordinated campaign to inform the British public of what leaving the European Union would really mean for them as individuals and for the country.“The people...
Coffee houses in Vienna
When Starbucks came to Vienna some 15 years ago – opening 21 shops in prime locations – many Viennese braced themselves for the graceless world of American consumerism. They need not have feared Within a few years, the company was in retreat to the malls and train stations where it is most at home.Now even the local knockoffs are reverting...
Working in Austria
The grass is really greenerMany things draw Americans to Europe: family roots, the beauty, new perspectives, and of course romance. For me, this time, it was a career opportunity.But like many expats, I sometimes pushed it too far, taking on Europe’s better qualities as my own, seeing myself not as a better American, but better than Americans, more worldly,...
Global citizenship
A warning to remember your country – of heritage or residence – even if your life has made you a citizen of the worldLast October, British Prime Minister Theresa May shocked many when she disparaged the idea of global citizenship. “If you believe you’re a citizen of the world,” she said, “you’re a citizen of nowhere.”Her statement was met...
Putin visits Orban
An unspectacular visit by Vladimir Putin is an important measure of the growing pressures on a united EuropeOn February 2, Vladimir Putin arrived in Budapest. That simple sentence written in this fast-moving and unpredictable Trumpian world actually tells us a lot.It is about common European values and an attitude toward a regime that wages wars in Europe to satisfy...
Vienna's News
A quick-and-dirty synopsis of last month’s headlines in ViennaMost of Business Founded in Vienna In 2016 nearly 40,000 companies were founded in Austria, just under 9,000 in Vienna alone, which constitutes a slight increase compared to 2015. Women founded 61% of the new businesses. This amount of newly founded companies translates into roughly 60,000 additional jobs.Need to know: The founding of...
johannes kopf
The head of Austria’s Public Employment Service (AMS), Johannes Kopf on the Chancellor’s Plan A employment ideas and why careers are like trees“There are lots of areas of work that are interesting, more than we think,” Johannes Kopf tells me, almost in a whisper. “And a lot of things get better as you do them.” So even if it’s...
Living and Working in Austria
Austrians appreciate a fair day’s work if it doesn’t interfere too much with their private lives. But as the economic heart of Central Europe, the country scrambles to redefine its relationship with work“It’ll be like the Staatsvertrag,” scoffs 29-year-old Jan Stiglitz over the clinking of glasses. That is, the employment contract the young Czech will be signing the following...
social entrepreneurship in africa
Two Austrian-led organizations ask whether social entrepreneurs in Africa can combat the world’s “wicked problems” any better than development NGOsIn the charming 2013 documentary Bring the Sun Home illiterate mothers and grandmothers leave their remote villages from South America to Nauru to train as solar engineers at the Barefoot College, an NGO in India. Their mission? To provide light back...
Veterinarians
Gabriele and Sabrina Bacher: Veterinarians through and throughGirls and horses have long had a special connection. What may be less known is that this affinity for animals has drawn more and more young women towards veterinary medicine. Sabrina Bacher, 31, can testify to this: At the University of Vienna, her class was 80 percent women.For her mother, Gabriele Bacher,...
stefan ruzowitzky
Film DirectorEven at the tender age of 10, Stefan Ruzowitzky, 55, was not a dreamer but a doer. After seeing his brother perform in the annual school play, he had already had his hopes set on directing the next one. When it was cancelled, he simply went ahead and organized a production of his own.Ruzowitzky’s path to becoming a...
Roman Rafreider
News Anchorman, ORFRoman Rafreider, 47, finds the idea of identifying what his dream job was a little odd, since the keyword is the “dream” part. “In that case, you still wouldn’t be doing it yet.  You can only really name it once you’ve done it for a while. Otherwise it’s just a belief.”“That’s why I can now say this...
Nina Poláková
Ballerina, Vienna State OperaLife is short. A ballet dancer’s career is even shorter, as Vienna State Opera leading soloist Nina Poláková, 31, wistfully observes.  The Slovak beauty got her start at age 10, when after trying out for the Bratislava Dance Conservatory on a whim, she landed first place in every round. She chalked it up to destiny and...
Be a diplomat
The ultimate dream jobs in public service take patience, persistence and good language skills. If you’re lucky, you even get to save the worldAdditional reporting by Jennifer Cornick Forget the glamor and intrigue of Hollywood diplomats. For most, the Foreign Service means navigating the perils of protocol amid marathon meetings and mountains of mind-numbing reports. And very occasionally, the haphazard...
Dealing with stress
One study divides how we cope with anxiety into four categories: Guardians, Integrators, Drivers and Pioneers. Which one are you?“Nothing is permanent in this wicked world, not even our troubles,” remarked Charlie Chaplin’s title character in Monsieur Verdoux, the 1947 murder mystery.For those of us who slave away at the daily grind, we can only hope for the alleviating...
vienna's coworking spaces
The number of coworking spaces in Vienna is growing. Is sharing an office with strangers the new normal? In 2017 more than a million people will choose a shared working space over home-office isolation. Is sharing your desk, WiFi, kitchen – and also your ideas  – with kindred spirits becoming the new normal?“Anybody in for Sexy Salad?” A curly-haired gentleman in a Kidrobot T-shirt...
How a mid-career degree jump-started three very  different professional livesToday, the one thing you can rely on is change. Which can be a good thing when it comes to finding your dream job.For these three very different people, the challenge was the same – a professional gap between where they were and where they wanted to be. For each, the...
viennese entrepreneurs
A closer look at leaving the rat race and striking out on your ownFor many Viennese, being your own boss is the dream of a lifetime. Yes, security matters, and steady employment is still often the ideal. But to some, the thrill of independence far outweighs the risks.And their numbers are growing: New business startups have increased dramatically over...
old university quarter
A tradition of temptationIn medieval Vienna, the hilly streets of the northeast quarter – encompassed by Rotenturmstraße, Fleischmarkt, Stubenring and the Wollzeile – was home to Vienna’s Old University, and the pleasure establishments that catered to idle scholars. Wealthy gentlemen and rowdy students alike would frequent the many inns and go to the Badestuben (bath houses) to stew. This...
music and performing arts
The University of Music and Performing Arts Vienna (MDW) celebrates its 200th anniversary with a cascade of eventsFriends of mine used to live across the street from the College for Veterinary Studies, a beautiful early 19th-century complex in the 3rd district just behind the Stadtpark. There, nearly in the center of town, on warm evenings with the windows open, you...
Richard Galliano and Ron Carter
Jazz greats Ron Carter & Richard Galliano team up for a rare live performanceTurning 80 this year, bass man Ron Carter has few peers left standing from jazz’s mid-20th century second golden age. His staggering number of collaborations has earned him a Guinness World Record as Most Recorded Jazz Bassist, boasting over 2,200 individual credits to his name in...
Medea
The Volkstheater tackles the original woman scorned in Franz Grillparzer’s MedeaHow do you create empathy for a mother who murders her children? With mixed success, judging from the Volkstheater’s production of Medea, an 1820 reimagining of the classical Greek myth by the renowned 19th century Viennese playwright Franz Grillparzer.Famously dramatized by Euripides in 421 B.C., Medea is the eternal...
Imagetanz Festival
Social criticism meets dance at Imagetanz, the annual experimental dance festivalExploring the symbolism and imagery of dance, the annual Imagetanz festival is still going strong after first taking the stage in 1989. In acknowledgement, this year’s edition kicks off under the motto “Welcome Back,” and opens with The Inheritance, a review of past performances from the last 25 years –...
Importance of Being Earnest
Back by popular demand, Open House Theatre goes Wilde with The Importance of Being Earnest Never ones to wash their clean linen in public, the Open House Theatre company scored a resounding success last year with The Importance of Being Earnest; so much so that they decided a second time certainly can’t hurt – you can never be too Earnest, after...

Vulgar Fashion

Vulgar Fashion
The Belvedere’s Winterpalais takes a walk on fashion’s exquisite ugly side exploring vulgar fashionPlunging necklines, exposed straps, emblazoned logos: vulgarity is beauty’s tacky cousin. But what is vulgarity exactly – and who decides? Adam Philips, a psychoanalyst and Judith Clark, a curator, created the exhibition The Vulgar – Fashion Redefined to address that elusive question with historic dress, ready-to-wear...
Biedermeier Glass exhibition
Glasses from the Empire and Biedermeier Period documents a rising middle class and its search for its own aestheticThere’s nothing new about conspicuous consumption - Imperial Vienna understood very well how to sweeten everyday life with things of beauty. It was “glassmania,” said director Christoph Thun- Hohenstein, opening the sumptuous new show of ornamental glass from the Imperial and...
The Young Karl Marx
The Young Karl Marx takes the earliest days of the labor movement out of the textbooks At first glance, an origin story of Socialism doesn’t seem an obvious choice for an engaging film. Unlike the revolutionaries that succeeded them, Marx and Engels did not fight on barricades or in the jungle; their battlefield was journals and academia. Yet director Raoul...
Moonlight
Barry Jenkins’ Oscar winner - Moonlight - tackles contemporary issues, captivating critics and festival audiencesA semi-autobiographical cinematic memoir, Moonlight tells of poverty, prejudice and drug abuse in bustling Miami by following young Chiron, as he tries to reach adulthood. Battling harsh emotional conditions in a hostile environment, Chiron is played by several actors as the character ages and deals with...
Silence
Martin Scorsese brings his passion project, Silence, to the screenFinally finished after 27 years, Martin Scorsese’s latest film Silence has been a labor of love. His second run-in with religious introspection (after 1988’s controversial The Last Temptation of Christ), the acclaimed filmmaker wrote, directed and produced this adaptation of Shūsaku Endō’s reflection on the nature of faith with intense...
European cinema’s poorly charted east has more than a few surprises up its sleeve at the Let's CEE Film FestivalCommitted to granting much-needed exposure to films from points east, Let’s CEE once again showcases the cream of the celluloid crop from Eastern Europe, Turkey and the Caucasus with documentaries, shorts and full features – subtitled in English and German. A...
The History of Now
Nadiv Molcho – the young actor, director and member of the NENI clan – is used to defying naysayers. His first feature film is The History of NowThe world of Nadiv Molcho – a hyperactive 27-year-old actor-director – is a multicultural stew of flavors and inspirations. Meeting over Indian curry and New York cheesecake at his Israeli mother’s flagship...
A frozen Donau
Ice on the Alte Donau is a rare occurrence, bringing equally rare smiles to Vienna winters In all my 15 years of living in Vienna, this winter has been the coldest, by far. Such a ceaseless deep freeze weakens the soul, ­despite the Gemütlichkeit of a warm coffee­house or the elegant finery and extravagance of our Faschingszeit balls. Under the oppressive,...
Europe Since 1989
How neoliberalism changed Central Europe in Europe Since 1989After the fall of Communism, “privatization” was the word of the day, and it seemed all of Central Europe was up for sale. In telecommunications, Deutsche Telekom invested in Hungary and Siemens in Poland; in automotive, Volkswagen took over the Czech firm Škoda, building, retooling plants near Prague and Bratislava.Five years...
Idyll with Drowning Dog and Madalyn
Austrian Michael Köhlmeier’s reinvention of the novel with Idyll with Drowning Dog and MadalynMichael Köhlmeier is a man of his times. One of the most respected writers of his generation in Austria, Köhlmeier is a novelist who has also played important public roles – as moderator of the leading news round table “Club 2” on ORF national television, and...
style
Tall, sleek, elegant – fashion models can seem cold, removed, untouchable. We imagine they live charmed lives of pampered luxury, free entry and travel to exotic places. But behind the scenes it’s quite a different story The ones who have become true fashion icons are few and far between.  A model’s job is to transform into different styles, moods;...
Keeping you on top of important pillars of the fashion scene, from hypes to unsung heroesSupreme The intense, somewhat psychotic obsession fashion addicts have with this street wear brand is both fascinating and mind-boggling. The logo is a simple red rectangle with white sans serif font spelling out the name with a capital S. Outside Supreme’s London location, hundreds of...
favorite places to shop
These are METROPOLE’S picks for must-visit shops in March. All Austrian, all legit, all goodSia’s Snack Shop Smack in the middle of Mariahilfer Straße, a store, nay, a haven, has opened for all those craving the sugary sweet escape provided by mammoth American candy conglomerates. The irresistible indulgences range from double-stuff Oreos, past Ben & Jerry’s One Love pint-size ice...
Gasthaus zum Sieg
For savory Gulasch, Gasthaus zum Sieg is the real dealGasthaus zum Sieg is a real-life Beisl (bistro), not an “Original Vienna Kitchen” (in six languages), nor cutely restyled for hipsters seeking an “authentic experience.” There has been a Gasthaus (tavern) in this quiet corner of the 2nd district since 1763, re-named Zum Sieg (At the Sign of Victory) after...
Restaurant Ludwig Van
Ludwig van interprets culinary classics while adding new notes under the auspicious roof of one of Beethoven’s former dwellingsFinding Ludwig van is easy: Beethoven’s face scowls from a block away, encircled by a ring of green neon light. The prominent sign, fusing veneration for the old with a playful openness to the new is a telling indicator of what...
St Patrick's day in Vienna
As St. Patrick’s Day looms, a look at some of Vienna’s dyed-in-the-green establishmentsIrish pubs are liquid embassies – no consular services, but a lot more fun. They’re certainly everywhere – I have drunk Guinness in Dharamsala, and in a roadside tin shack on the tiny Caribbean island of St Lucia. As vital generators of goodwill, it is every Irish...
Winemaking
Cellar, field and desk; March is a busy  time of year for winemakersThe cliché of cute country girls and boys, skirts and sleeves rolled up as they tread the grapes, may have finally been consigned to the bin of wine making lore, but there’s still plenty of romantic haze fogging the hard reality. Between the jolly harvesting of last...
Skiing at night in Semmering.
An after-work ski escape to an illuminated “magic mountain” is just an hour away. Several routes cut through the woods, creating 14 km of runs – 13 of which are lit up after dark At night on a floodlit slope, all sensations seem twice as intense. The sun’s long gone, replaced by a nostril- freezing cold that – if you are...
Innsbruck
Innsbruck delights with high peaks and a proud history. Twice host to the Winter Olympics and the Winter Paralympics, snow and ice lie at the spiritual heart of this city Innsbruck certainly has a knack for putting its best foot forward: On the profitable trade route between Germany and Italy near a mountain pass used since Roman times, it has been welcoming...
Vienna on Demand
A new collection of local hotspots and events to discover! To advertise please contact ads@metropole.atShanghaitan – Restaurant 1060 Sophisticated and romantic, ShanghaiTan’s sleek, sensuous interior is dominated by a ceiling entirely covered in Chinese lanterns. The food, ranging from classic to modern Japanese, Chinese and Vietnamese, can also be enjoyed in separated booths for parties of two or more. Reservations are recommended. Mon-Sat,...
pragmatisierung
To be truly integrated in Vienna there are certain terms no dictionary or Deutschkurs will properly explainBut you’re no stranger, so here’s this month’s cheat sheet:   PRAGMATISIERUNG  A practice commonly associated with Austrian government employees denoting that a civil servant is legally unfireable (unless convicted of a crime or other major infraction). Generally granted to veteran staffers, “pragmatization” was originally introduced...
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