editors letter november 2017
A true Wiener says things like, “my dad is Bohemian and my mom’s from Hungary, which makes me as Viennese as it gets!” In language, cuisine, culture and attitude, Vienna attributes its differentness (Wien ist anders) to its history as a social, artistic and intellectual melting pot. But along with the remnants of Empire, Vienna is used to being...
from our readers november 2017
Many thanks for your thoughts, ideas and insights! If you have something to say about Vienna or a story you read here, tell us all about it. Send an email to office@metropole.at.   To the editor, (in response to our Facebook share of the Washington Post article “Austria's new Anti-Burqa law isn't Quite Working as Intended") On behalf of the Austrian people (im Namen der...
populism
The anguish over protectionism misses a deeper message about European identity The news about Europe these days is discouraging: headlines, books and essays all tell a common story: “The Rebirth of Populism”; “How Far is Europe Swinging to the Right?” The End of Europe: Dictators, Demagogues and the Coming Dark Age. It makes pretty grim reading. After several decades of mobility and mingling across fluid borders,...
sebastian kurz
Regardless of what you think of the “New ÖVP,” the hype around its leader Sebastian Kurz, Austria’s millennial foreign minister and likely new chancellor, is getting out of hand Naturally, that’s as the ÖVP planned it – their entire campaign revolved around young, fresh Kurz, promising change, ending the deadlock within the government that has hobbled Austria for years. Change? The...
sebastian kurz coalition
He did it. Sebastian Kurz, head of the conservative People’s Party (ÖVP), won the Austrian election. His shift to a more populist stance on immigration and the EU may have been decisive, and reflects a broader trend in the region, with Kurz endorsing a reform scenario where the Union should be “doing less more efficiently” during his campaign. However, after his victory, Kurz was at pains to point out that he intends...
democracy
Democracy, for all its flaws, may in fact be the best form of government. But there are many ways to improve it By Peter Emerson Following the elections on October 15, Austria’s political parties are now jostling to form another coalition government. Germany too is facing the challenge of cobbling together a coalition of three different parties with three very different...
austrians love hate germans
Austria and Germany share a troubled past, the (almost) same language – and are still worlds apart “Eine Tüte, bitte!” – a casual request at a supermarket checkout – is social suicide for a German in Vienna. For the clueless visitor from the north, Tüte and Sackerl may appear to mean the same thing, i.e. shopping bag. But for a...
austrian news october 2017
A quick-and-dirty synopsis of last month’s Austrian News Uber Faces Legal Headwinds in Vienna As in many other cities, an Uber ride is much cheaper in Vienna than taking a taxi. This is due to a lack of clarity in the legislation surrounding taxis and car rental companies. There is currently no law encompassing car sharing services. However, an October ruling...
roberta manganelli
Roberta Manganelli, founder and head of Stella Models talks about Vienna’s 70s flair, the art/fashion balance and how being Italian in Austria helped her get ahead Her son was born in Vienna and calls himself an Italian Viennese (“Ein italienischer Wiener”). But Roberta Manganelli feels her roots every day of her life and is therefore “a Viennese Italian.” There’s no...
austria central europe
Austria shares a rich history and culture with its Central European brothers and sisters. Now that borders have disappeared, the region is once again thriving as one Family relationships are always complex – layers of loyalty and long memory, instinct, identity and loss, so thick they can be hard to separate. And so it is with Austria and its family...
Liechtenstein
How well do you know your neighbors? We looked into the Alpine Republic’s special relationship with each of them Ah, the mountainous microstate sandwiched between Austria and Switzerland, the principality on the Rhine, the constitutional monarchy with a sordid history of taxation scandals and a miniscule population of around 37,000 citizens. German-speaking Liechtenstein is Austria’s most erudite (with the highest...
switzerland austria
How well do you know your neighbors? We looked into the Alpine Republic’s special relationship with each of them Right in the heart of Europe there is a country where four languages are spoken as a matter of course. It is Austria's richest neighbor. The white spot on maps of the EU, Switzerland is a big foreign investor in Austria,...
Germany austria
How well do you know your neighbors? We looked into the Alpine Republic’s special relationship with each of them An Austrian Kabarettist recently put it this way: “We Austrians have a permanent inferiority complex, we think the Germans are better at everything. But that’s all right, the Germans think so too.” A hundred years ago it was very different, the German...
Italy Austria
How well do you know your neighbors? We looked into the Alpine Republic’s special relationship with each of them “So it’s Spaghetti alla Bolognese as the first course, then Wiener Schnitzel – and then I'll prepare some Kaiserschmarrn to have with our espresso later. OK?”. This is my mum. I was back home for a short visit and she was...
Slovakia Austria
How well do you know your neighbors? We looked into the Alpine Republic’s special relationship with each of them Austrians know its nearby capital of Bratislava as the favorite of Empress Maria Theresia, where she was crowned Queen of Hungary in 1740 at the age of 24. They also know it as Pressburg, the Hungarians as Pozsony, and to the...
Czechia Austria
How well do you know your neighbors? We looked into the Alpine Republic’s special relationship with each of them Czechs (and Slovaks) have a particular name for Austria: Rakousko, derived from an obscure border castle. Similarly, the beginnings of their relationship lie foggy in the distance, further back than any two other neighbors in the region – even if Czechs...
Hungary Austria
How well do you know your neighbors? We looked into the Alpine Republic’s special relationship with each of them Whenever Austria and Hungary play each other in soccer, sooner or later someone cracks the old joke: “Today it’s Austria - Hungary!”, “Oh, and who’s on the other side?”. Yes there was a time long past when Austria and Hungary were two realms joined in...
Slovenia Austria
How well do you know your neighbors? We looked into the Alpine Republic’s special relationship with each of them “Austrians are in a good position economically, and they have jobs for us!”, Slovene Ziga Luknar tells me enthusiastically. He has been living in Vienna for a year now, and even though he is not yet employed, his plan is to stay...
leni charles
Growing up with a diverse cultural background can be a challenge, but also a gift. These four people have made diversity their ally A T-shirt is an easy way to connect with people, it's like a business card that says, ‘Hey, reach out to me! “Been there. Done that. Got the T-shirt.” A mantra of sorts for millennials. But in the...
das biber jelena pantic
“I'm blue-eyed, fair-haired, and speak perfect German. It's only when I tell people my name that there's a certain reaction." Vienna-born Jelena Pantić never thought being bilingual was anything unusual – until her first day of school. Puzzled, she came home and asked, “Mommy, what does ‘Tschuschin’ mean?” Even in the third generation, the old “dis” for ex-Yugoslav immigrants was...
wiener tschuschenkapelle
Growing up with a diverse cultural background can be a challenge, but also a gift. These four people have made diversity their ally You're an outsider no matter where you come from, where you are, or what time you live in. Slavko Ninić, 63, knows what it’s like to be an outsider. But he’s quick to point out that everyone is...
katharina moser
Growing up with a diverse cultural background can be a challenge, but also a gift. These four people have made diversity their ally If we want things like the EU to work on a political and economic level, we really have to start on an emotional level. It was like a scene out of L’Auberge Espagnole: At 18, Katharina Moser was...
wedding vienna
If you want to tie the knot, there is lots to plan for – not least Austria’s stilted bureaucracy Vienna is a dazzling backdrop to any love story. With magnificent ambiance guiding star-crossed lovers through streets of relaxed grandeur, its epic historical scenery can melt hearts with ease. Between luscious stolen glances above a steaming mélange or endless echoing strolls...
entrepreneur business capital Vienna
Vienna has long been a link between East and West. As more CEE entrepreneurs seek access to Western markets and capital, can Vienna offer them what they need? By Michael Bernstein & Susanne Gottlieb In a city of neuroses, what do people need? Perhaps some advice on how to live happier lives. So the place to be for Jan Hrubý, who...
marshall plan
With an entire continent in ruins, the Marshall Plan planted the seeds for a peaceful, prosperous Europe As the Second World War finally ground down to an end in Europe, Austria lay devastated, its economy in shambles, its territory carved up by the victorious Allied powers into zones of authority for the U.S., France, Britain and the Soviet Union. At the...
balkans
Can Austria help bring Southeastern Europe into the EU’s fold? After all, as State Chancellor Klemens von Metternich knew, “the Balkans begin at Rennweg” In July 2018, Austria will again assume the European Union presidency, just as enlargement comes back on the agenda. Many in Europe still think expansion matters, as European Commission President Jean-Claude Juncker’s recent State of the Union made clear. “If we want more stability in our neighborhood, we...
EBA
Following the Brexit vote, two EU agencies are poised to leave London. Amidst cutthroat competition, Vienna is a prime contender As the Brexit negotiations drag on, the downside for Britain only becomes clearer. Now, two London-based agencies – the European Medicines Agency (EMA) and European Banking Authority (EBA) – are pulling up stakes. For European cities, the race is on. The EU has 37 agencies...
yugoslavian community
The city's seizable ex-Yugoslavian community looks to the past for unity and identity In Central Europe, the truth is often hidden behind a joke. Like: "What is the capital of Yugoslavia?" Most will look perplexed, then relieved. "Nowhere!" they say triumphantly. "The country doesn't exist anymore!" But those who are better informed just smile: It is, of course, Vienna. Or at...
alt-hietzing
On a warm Sunday morning in Alt-Hietzing, an elderly lady pushes her walker along the old wooden parquet terrace of Café Dommayer, a coffeehouse where dukes and duchesses strolled in days past. Famous in the 19th century as a dance hall where Johann Strauss Sr. and Jr. both performed, it was recently added to the Kurkonditorei Oberlaa empire. But nothing...
gramola
The compact disc is still a viable archival medium, especially for classical music I just read a Japanese best-seller about cleaning. The basic premise is that if you reduce your belongings to a perfect minimum of only those things you feel deeply about, then designate each a special place in your home, you will live the rest of your days...
blue bird festival 2017
Twelve singer-songwriters take the stage for Vienna’s best-known festival of its kind Intimate, emotional and atmospheric, singer-songwriters write and perform deeply personal, often melancholic tunes – the perfect soundtrack for lazy afternoons under a gray November sky. But music is best enjoyed live, something the Vienna Songwriting Association knows all too well; as the nights grow longer, they encourage you...
wien modern 2017
Contemporary music is center stage again for the 30th year running Loud, emotional, noisy or sublime – contemporary music has many faces, some of them challenging for laypeople to understand. Fortunately, for the last 30 years Wien Modern has committed to making the cutting edge more accessible by adding art installations, performances and video into the mix, creating an audibly...
Raphael
The iconic Raphael awes at the Albertina as an iconic painter and draftsman If imitation is the sincerest form of flattery, then Raphael is among the most-praised artists in history. His style synthesized compositional balance with dynamic movement and dramatic characters, creating a template of what painting could do until the dawn of Impressionism. Combining Leonardo da Vinci’s anatomic explorations...
Vienna comic con
The gargantuan pop culture mothership lands at the Prater Making geek hearts leap since 2015, the Viennese outpost of the juggernaut known as Comic Con showcases more than 140 artists and hosts numerous panels and screenings, meet and greets, costume workshops and Q and A sessions, featuring the crème de la crème of sequential art, television, film and fandom. Among...
philipp oberlohr
Baffling and bewildering, illusionist Philipp Oberlohr knows everything about you As I walked through the 16th district, I suddenly got a queasy feeling. I was on my way to The Game, a performance by illusionist Philipp Oberlohr, but, inexplicably, something felt off. I walked up a narrow staircase to the first floor of an ominous abandoned warehouse, and reached an...
Kathy Griffin
The celebrated comic tells her side of the “decapitating Trump” affair Known for snarky observational humor and a focus on celebrities and their stereotypical lifestyles, Kathy Griffin is one of America’s most visible funny people, gaining recognition for her stand-up work and specials with HBO as well as her appearances on television, including The Fresh Prince of Bel-Air, ER, and...
robert frank
Don’t Blink is an insightful gaze into the life and mind of iconoclastic photographer Robert Frank The camera zeroes in on an unkempt, disheveled elderly gentleman; a question comes from off screen: “What makes a good photo?” The old man breaks out into a smile, and says, “It should be sharp!” The grin widens. Meet Robert Frank, legendary photog­rapher, filmmaker, artist...
murder on the orient express
The latest adaptation of Agatha Christie’s classic whodunit entices with a stellar cast Previously brought to the screen by Sidney Lumet in a much loved 1974 adaptation, Agatha Christie’s Murder on the Orient Express remains one of her most popular and glamorous novels. This time Kenneth Branagh di­rects and stars (sporting an im­pressive moustache) as the dap­per Belgian sleuth, recreating...
suburbicon
George Clooney and the Coen brothers make a 1950s confidential Peeling away the idyllic veneer of 1950s America, Suburbicon follows two families in the eponymous postwar middle­class neighborhood. While the African­American Meyers are met with hostility and bigotry upon moving in, their white neighbors, the Lodges, are spiraling ever deeper into a sinister plot of escalating violence. Yet Suburbicon barely...
review twilight of empire
Debunking myths of the murder-suicide of Crown Prince Rudolf and his lover You know the story – or, you think you know it. With the scenery collapsing around the Austro-Hungarian Empire, two lovers – Crown Prince Rudolf and his mistress, Mary Vetsera – take their own lives at a remote hunting lodge deep in the Vienna Woods on a midwinter...
ali rabbani fashion november 2017
Five photographers collaborated to illustrate Italian love. The variations in interpretation by each artist demonstrate that there is never only one right answer in the creative process and that multiple visions can coexist in harmony. Photographers Alex Kaiser, Thomas Paul Kleedorfer, Nadja Nemetz, Oliver Neunteufel & Michael Strobl Styling Ali Rabbani // instagram.com/iamrabbani Styling Assistance Lana Sharp // instagram.com/goodmorninghuman Makeup Selma Yakin // instagram.com/selma.yakin Models Roxana & Nina // stellamodels.com  
up and coming jeweller
Jewelry can show commitment, draw attention to certain features of our appearance and even tell a story ALIGHIERI The label takes its inspiration from Dante Alighieri’s The Divine Comedy, an epic poem of 100 cantos. Each decorative piece represents one of his stories. From hell and purgatory to paradise, the designer imagines the people and creatures wearing the antique-tinged gold jewelry...
local finds november 2017
This November, we look into baubles and embellishments, from precious gems to contemporary textile and metal hybrids ANNA INSPIRING JEWELRY Austrian jewelry designer Anna Singer opened up her first shop in Vienna with the goal of bringing her delicate creations to the masses. With her intricate designs, industrial know-how and her understanding of the contemporary jewelry market, she has managed to...
ali rabbani favorite things november
Chopard is putting a focus on certified ethical mining with this collection, inspired by the geometrical form of ice cubes. It has a touch of avant-garde with hard lines that retain a certain feminine air. from €655 chopard.de A simple yet profound idea: A gilded nail sleekly wrapped around your wrist. It is already a hit with fashion aficionados and also available for...
hungarian wine
Hungary has a terroir all its own, with a heart and soul rooted in the small, family vineyards Less than three hours from Vienna, you are in a very different world of bor (wine): the Badacsony region on Lake Balaton, Hungary. The Badacsony-hegy (mountain – and the Y’s are silent) is a basalt outcrop along the north shore, once a...
agent oscar
Agent Oscar’s cocktails spoil the most demanding taste buds with updated American classics It’s somewhat ironic that the real birth of the cocktail coincides with the prohibition era in the United States: mixed, sweet drinks can be consumed faster in case of police raids, and adding sugar and other flavors helped mask the poor quality of illegal (and often poisonously...
viennese cuisine
A tour of Vienna's flavors borrowed from across Central Europe Austrians love eating well, and while Wiener Küche (Viennese cuisine) is famous well beyond the city limits, some of its most popular dishes so proudly touted as local delicacies were brought over from neighboring countries. As the multicultural capital of an empire of over 50 million in its heyday, immigrants flocked to Vienna from all over the realm, bringing their comfort food...
budapest bratislava vienna
To truly dine like a Kaiser take in three Habsburg capitals in one day It’s the decadence of proximity. In our tight-knit corner of Europe even the budget traveler can be a globe trotter. And while it felt indulgent dining in three capital cities in one day, don't think it meant rushing from one place to the next. The journeys...
Zillertal
The Zillertal caters to both daredevils and families, boasting Austria’s steepest slope and gentle pistes At last, the wind blew the last storm cloud o the knobbly buttresses of Penken mountain, leaving one of Austria’s most famous ski runs right beneath the tips of my skis, glistening invitingly with a thick coat of fresh snow. With a gradient of 78...
city guide vienna november 2017
A new collection of tips to discover! To advertise please contact ads@metropole.at ARTMARK GALLERY VIENNA We present contemporary art from circa 1950 to the present day. Abstraction, a timeless vocabulary of color and form that incorporates the “space,” reduction and concentration on the essential and also concrete art all the way to minimalism are the main focus of the gallery. We present artists like Dora...
schlawiner meaning
To be truly integrated in Vienna there are certain terms no dictionary or Deutschkurs will properly explain. But you’re no stranger, so here’s this month’s cheat sheet. SCHLAWINER Noun. A loveable rogue; someone who is untrustworthy, but charming. A crook, but more con man than hardened thug. Often used playfully for naughty boys, skirt-chasing lotharios or used car salesmen. Orig. Slovene or Slavone (Slovenian); in...
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This was written by the Metropole editorial Team. Sometimes its an expat, sometimes a native, most of the time the lines are blurred, and sometimes we're sharing someone else's content, but we always say so. Oh yeah, and buy our magazine! Thanks.