The new downtown hotspot Kitch serves up pimped Neapolitan with industrial chic
The neon signage and bare-brick interior don’t scream pizzeria. There is genuinely little to suggest the main fare at Kitch until you venture past the large natural wood standing table to the back where, next to the round white pizza oven, you’ll find the pizzaiolo, Carmine Cilento. Formerly at the beloved Pizzeria Mari, the native of Salerno can be trusted at his trade. In the Neapolitan style, his pizzas have light, wide crusts, a paper-thin base and generous toppings.
The mood is convivial, with groups of friends, couples and families chatting and laughing, backed by mellow beats coming from the speakers. The wait staff (still underperforming in the first week) has now found its stride and looks fantastic in generously pleated cloth trousers and aggressively casual white tops, by the local label MILK. The whole scene would be too hip for words – like a place you would expect to serve experimental sushi, or Vietnamese fusion burgers – but thankfully, it’s just great pizza.
There are many of the usual suspects (Margherita, buffala, etc.) but exceptions like the mouth-watering Truffle Pizza, topped with artichokes and slices of the luxury mushroom dissolve your worries like no simple rusticana ever could. The fresh and tart variation, entitled “Amalfina” is topped with lemon zest and is one of a good selection of bianchi, (without tomato sauce) on offer. The appetizers are equally enticing, like a velvety artichoke with three dips, that is a perfect snack with wine, if you’re just there for drinks. The wine list includes both regional favorites as well as Italian imports, served in (what else?) stemless glasses.
The fact that the relatively swanky crowd is munching on cheesy comfort food is this concept’s saving grace. “People love pizza,” General Manager Ibrahim Tosun told METROPOLE.
Another surprise is a huge, very red painting by the famed Austrian “Aktionist” Hermann Nitsch nearly covering one wall of the dining room. This, it turns out, is just the beginning, as at the end of April, Kitch will share the kitchen with a second, evenings-only restaurant around the corner called ART, a fine-dining establishment with a club downstairs. This second menu will concentrate on low-carb cuisine with a higher price tag. Whereas dinner at Kitch will set you back about €25, a night at ART will be closer to €50 for a full meal, Tosun said.
Kitch has managed to balance hipness and high-quality ingredients with the irreverent atmosphere of a family-style restaurant. It may be on the expensive side for pizza (€9.50-€21), but you certainly get your money’s worth.
1., Biberstraße 8
Mon – Sat, 11:30-14:30 & 17:30-23:00
(01) 512 05 51 11