Thomas Schäfer-Elmayer | The Baron of Ball Season

Austria’s own Mr. Manners, Thomas Schäfer-Elmayer spills the beans on upholding traditions, ball season’s allure and gender equality.

In the early months of the year, nowhere in the world will you find so many young people in fancy dress. Gentlefolk in tuxedos and evening gowns take to the streets, eagerly flocking to the Hofburg, the Musikverein, and the many palaces – Vienna’s unrivaled bastions of ball season.

Willy Elmayer-Vestenbrugg opened Tanzschule Elmayer, the city’s legendary ballroom-dancing school, 100 years ago. He later adopted a young man who would father Vienna’s emperor of etiquette, Thomas Schäfer-Elmayer. As a young boy growing up in Vorarlberg, Thomas was far from Viennese high society, however. When the family went to the Hohenems Palace where the Waldburg-Zeil family lived, “at age five or six,” he told me, “I kissed the countess’s hand and my sister did a curtsy. That’s somewhat unusual.”

In his will, Willy Elmayer-Vestenbrugg hoped that Thomas (the son) would take over the school from his father. But first, Thomas spent 20 years working abroad in industrial management. When his father wished to retire, he returned to Vienna, the city where he had studied. At first he was hesitant: It would mean leaving his job for a completely different world.

“Now it’s been 30 years,” he said with a laugh. “But I said to myself, ‘There is a tradition here which is endangered all over the world. A tradition that brings people together, where people try to behave well, and still, there’s a comfortable atmosphere.

Tanz & Tradition

The dancing school is attended by Viennese teenagers, between 14 and 18. It’s not only a tradition for upper-class families, but also creates a social network between schools, often resulting in life-long friendships and even marriages. “The ball tradition was always about debutantes being introduced to society,” said Schäfer-Elmayer.

Learning ball season etiquette is part of the game, and while many ball goers are not only there to dance, the midnight Quadrille, when guests dance in line formations and then “gallop” around the dancefloor, is an irresistible experience and even non-waltzers take part. Nowhere in the world is ball season as elegantly silly, and as popular, as it is in Vienna.

“It all started in France,” Schäfer-Elmayer explained. He gave me a short historical overview of how the high-society party scene traveled from Spain and Burgundy to Austria. Back then, the opulence and fancy dress was reserved for nobility. Then it spread to civil servants, guilds and tradesmen – the Feuerwehrball (firemen), the Zuckerbäckerball (confectioners), or the Rauchfangkehrerball (chimney sweeps). Today, the Hip Hop Ball, Life Ball and Refugee Ball have joined and the season has become even more affordable and inclusive, and also more diverse. Needless to say, my conversation partner is a traditionalist, both when it comes to dancing, attire and, most of all, etiquette.

The Tanzschule Elmayer offers lessons in manners and behavioral protocol. Schäfer-Elmayer himself teaches business etiquette, including table manners, tactfulness and international business customs. “It’s important to be empathetic, to have insight into human nature, so that you can act in the best way in any situation.”

Ladies & Gentlemen

Touting traditional social values isn’t straight-forward. Much of what Schäfer-Elmayer teaches in his courses on etiquette and dancing decorum still propagates gender-based behavior. His arguments for upholding traditions have garnered him criticism in the media, particularly in a Puls4 debate in the summer of 2018. We spoke about the different standpoints. In fact, he sees tradition as something that strengthens a woman’s position in society.

“If you look back to ancient Rome, the pater familias had the power over life and death,” he says. The chivalry that evolved in the European court elevated women to a higher status, by demonstrating respect and appreciation by way of small gestures and courtesies.

“This is a very current topic,” he said. The septuagenarian firmly defends the traditions of courtesy, like standing up when a woman arrives or leaves, defining them as a tradition stemming from the first culture-wide initiative to raise the status of women. In the Puls4 debate, two young women, the feminist activist Anne Wizorek and journalist Alexandra Stanic argued that chivalrous behavior is pleasant but does not support the equal treatment of women in the workplace and society in general.

“They were of the opinion that these things are just there to show how bad, weak and incapable women are,” he said with a sigh. Schäfer-Elmayer also cited the German feminist writer and activist Alice Schwarzer, who told him she found such behavior “patronizing.”

Both of these interactions seem to have left an impression. He sees a vast difference between how women are treated professionally and in private life. “I know a university professor who told me that she’s the only woman on the board of her university with a bunch of male professors. I understand that,” he shrugs. “She’s the same, and of course that’s also her profession. That’s something different.

”As the teens of 2020 prepare for ball season, Schäfer-Elmayer has his hands full. Not only are his courses for young people booked out, but private lessons and adult classes also boom in the fall and winter. In this, the centennial year, the Elmayer dancing school looks forward to teaching us to waltz, bow and curtsy for generations to come.


The Hofburg Palace

His favorite ball location is also the venue for the 100th Elmayer Kränzchen, the dancing school’s own ball. “It’s one of the favorites, particularly for people from abroad,” he says, “because it starts at six and is over at midnight.” Most balls start much later, 21:00 or 22:00 and last until 5:00. The Kränzchen is also relatively late in the season, on March 5th.

The Hofburg 1., HeldenplatzElmayer Kränzchen, March 5

Vienna Philharmonic Ball

The Philharmoniker Ball is one of Schäfer-Elmayer’s favorites. “At the ball Vienna Philharmonic invites an international star conductor for that one evening. And there are no speeches, it’s just a beautifully staged traditional ball.” Next to the opera ball it may be one of the most prestigious tickets of the season.

Musikverein1., Musikvereinsplatz 1
Vienna Philharmonic Ball, Jan 23

Ball of the Old Scots

The Ball der Alt-Schotten is one of the smaller events of the season that Schäfer-Elmayer recommends. It stems from the ball of the renowned private school by the Freyung in the inner city but today, it’s open to the public and welcomes 1,000 guests. This is also thanks to the partnership with the Tanzschule Elmayer.

Palais Auersperg8., Auerspergstraße 1
Ball der Alt-Schotten, Jan 11

Café Landtmann

After a ball, so in the wee hours of the morning, most revelers proceed to one of Vienna’s many coffeehouses. Schäfer-Elmayer’s favorite coffeehouse stays open (almost) all night to accommodate the guests of the Coffee Brewers Ball.

Café Landmann1., Universitätsring 4
Kaffeesiederball, Feb 14

(Foto: ©Ripix)

Margaret Childs
Margaret (Maggie) Childs is the CEO and Publisher of METROPOLE. Originally from New York, Vienna has been her home since high school. She is known for non-stop enthusiasm, talking too fast, inhaling coffee and being a board member of AustrianStartups, where she helps entrepreneurs internationalize. Follow her on Instagram and twitter @mtmchilds.


You like local independent journalism in English? So do we!

To keep providing you with current news, insights, opinion and Schmäh about our shared hometown, we need your help.
We chose to provide our daily coverage for free, because we believe in equal access to information. And we want to be independent from our advertisers, so we can deliver the news that you want. With your help, we can keep giving you the open, independent journalism you deserve.

Don’t let the advertisers win!


If you’re able, please support Metropole today from as little as €1
or choose an amount:

RECENT Articles

3 Ways to Swear Like a Real Wiener

Entire books have been written about the ingenious ways the Viennese swear, rant, yammer and nag. And we know how to help you get acquainted with the high art of Viennese swearing.

The Burgtheater’s (im)Perfect Crib

Real time surtitles in German and English now make it possible for non-German speakers and the hard of hearing to enjoy Vienna’s greatest stage. But maybe you don’t need them.

5 Things You Didn’t Know About Empress Elisabeth “Sissi” of Austria

Better known by her nickname “Sissi,” she has captured the hearts of the public ever since she was immortalized by actress Romy Schneider in a trilogy of 1950s romantic comedies.

Donald Tusk’s Clear Voice

Welcoming to Scotland, the perennial European is not about to leave the political stage.

“Mein Fall” | Austrian Writer Tells of Sexual Abuse

As a choirboy at the Zwettl Monastery in the 1960s, novelist Josef Haslinger was regularly assaulted by his superiors. Now he wrote about it.

Passing the Baton

The Vienna Theatre Project meditates on MLK’s last night on earth in Katori Hall’s “The Mountaintop.”

5 Anti-Valentine’s Day Movies | It’s Difficult to Love

If the most saccharine of holidays is starting to get to you, here are five sobering – some would say more realistic – portrayals of human emotion.

Keeping It Together

Ken Loach takes on the human cost of the gig economy in his latest film, "Sorry We Missed You".